Book Review: Amazing Cartier, Jewelry Design Since 1937
October 23rd, 2009
Cover of Amazing Cartier by Nadine Coleno
In this well-documented and visually spectacular book, we learn about the birth, evolution, and legacy of jewelry firm we’ve come to know with reverence and not a little admiration as CARTIER. Established in 1937 by three brothers, Louis, Pierre, and Jacques, the author, Nadine Coleno, does a wonderful job of bringing them and their legend to life. When Louis met Jeanne Toussaint, the woman who would develop signature jewelry collections for the firm, she was a client and a designer of tapestry evening bags. The two formed a bond of interests, Louis introduced her to eighteenth-century art, and Toussaint brought with her the love of the sculpture and line of Romanesque and Gothic. She was also intimate with Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel — social connections with overarching benefits.

Flamingo Brooch, Platinum, rubies, sapphires, emeralds, and citrines, Cartier Paris 1940
Through Coleno’s descriptive writing and the book’s marvelous images we trip through time on a magic carpet ride of rainbow hues and motifs so inventive one forgets that these seemingly transcendental pieces were painstakingly crafted by the hand of a craftsman. Let’s not forget that these were wearable works of art for those lucky enough to have owned them. In truth, the images are quite large and the details so well photographed that the perspective in and of itself is almost as satisfying as holding one of Cartier’s iconic leopard’s in your palm.

Amazing Cartier, page 221. Hindu necklace. Formerly the collection of Daisy Fellowes and the Countess Casteja. Cartier Paris, special order 1936, altered 1963
Being a strong proponent of this genre of books, mine included, that illustrate jewelry being worn, I was happy to see that Amazing Cartier does not disappoint. In fact, many of the fashion images (some are from advertising, others are vintage photographs) are fabulous time capsules that depict the pieces when newly created, and paired with styles, hair and make-up that were contemporary for the time. While there are a substantial number of these period photos, it made me yearn for even more. Next time. But for now, this book is precious — in jewelry, content and all.
