Between Eternity and History, Bulgari, From 1884 To 2009, 125 Years of Italian Jewels

Most people remember Bulgari from the 1970s and ’80s when the Parentesi modular line of jewelry was first introduced. Author Amanda Triossi informs us that the line was the most copied jewelry design of all time. It is surprising how much the motif resonates today, possessing all the essence of its time and still invites us to linger over its smooth, satisfying pattern, and lustrous surface, with or without the addition of diamonds. However, Triossi, who spent years cataloging the company’s designs, takes us on the full-fare ride, from the end of the nineteenth century to the present day. So not only do we get to experience the firm’s contemporary aesthetic, in generous helpings of full color, double spread images, but the history is eruditely, and insightfully regaled in brief, delightful-to-read passages, and stunning photographs. Some of the best and most interesting are of the famous women who wore Bulgari, among them: Monica Vitti, Gina Lollobrigidia, Capucine, and Sophia Loren (the one of her on page 123 epitomizes Italian beauty in art and mortal attributes. Roman mythology couldn’t come up with better representatives).

A case of jewelry at the Bulgari 125 year retrospective

Bulgari en tremblant brooch, platinum, fancy yellow and white diamonds c 1960

Parentesi bangle by Bulgari, c 1982

The book is an excellent read. It was the catalog to the exhibit (see an image of the show above) that was held in Rome earlier in the year. Given as a holiday gift, together with my book (Brooches: Timeless Adornment), you will be bestowing upon your recipient hours of pleasure. Whether self-gift (feeding your soul is important too), or part of a celebratory exchange, the happy return of your investment will last far longer than New Year’s.

Bulgari bib necklace and earrings, yellow gold with cabochon turquoise, emerald, and amethyst, c 1965

***Please note: The book has a different cover for the American market which you will find on Amazon.com. The front cover depicted above, in my opinion, is more evocative of the firm’s aesthetic.